A very different type of island experience, Nusa Lembongan is to Gili Trawangan what chalk is to cheese. The subdued, sensible older sister, its scenery of abandoned fishing boats, gnarled mangroves and unspoiled coastlines makes the destination popular with expats, chillers and hard-core surfers, looking for a low-key fix of local culture.

 

Here you can see how Bali gained its moniker as Indonesia’s most friendly province, with the majority of people you encounter going above and beyond to make you feel at ease. The paragon of hospitality, our lovely host at Coconut Village did everything in her power to accommodate us, from renting us bikes to doing our laundry and feeding us with ample dinner recommendations. Following a mild disaster on our last day, in which we realised we had not only lost our boat tickets, but had forgotten the name, time and appearance of our boat back to the mainland, she insisted on calling every company in the harbour, before in a rare act of good fortune, our transfer car happened to rock up on our doorstep.

 

This sense of camaraderie extends to the non-Bali born, as we were to experience in the trivial conversations struck up anywhere and everywhere across the island. One in particular with an Australian couple, concerning two neighbouring, yet famously feuding warungs, caused us to fall in love with the local delicacy. Their take on the day’s freshly caught fish, wrapped and lightly barbequed in banana leaves, went down so successfully that it seemed only fair to try it in both (although we still insist on withholding judgement on either).

 

In terms of activities, Lembongan might be considered limited for the non-surfing crowd as one can circumvent the island, as well as the neighbouring Ceningan island, on bicycles in a day or so. After ticking off all of the major landmarks, the Mangrove Forest, the Devils Tear and Mushroom Bay, you may be at a loss for what to do next, although be warned that the dirt tracks, unexpected hills and rickety suspension bridge can make your adventure more dramatic than originally anticipated.

 

Charming and quaint or small and stifling, if Lembongan’s languor does ignite the need for a change of location then you may just find Uluwatu on Bali’s southern tip the perfect compromise. The deserted beaches and coves and hill-top temples that characterise the Bukit peninsula rival Lembongan’s in the realm of beauty, yet the sense of stagnation is remedied by the younger and more upbeat surfer crowd. Expect sports bars, surf competitions and beach parties; of planning not to go out but still finding yourself congregating around a K-mart, a freshly opened Bintang in hand. Despite becoming very much indoctrinated in the surfer’s psyche, the language of rips, breaks and barrels soon just washing over us unfazed, we’re ashamed to admit the pull was still not strong enough to cause us to pick up a board and give it a go ourselves. However, with Canguu next, another site on the devoted surfer’s pilgrimage, we knew we had plenty more opportunities left to embarrass ourselves.